Switzerland
The journey moved into its second half. I was on a career-break trip before starting a new job —my first one since 2007. Once in Zürich, eating the Rösti and sausages was a must. The rösti was good. A meal, and of course a beer, at classic Zeughauskeller. Just as pricey as Iceland—typical. It was an evening stop this time, but I guess I do prefer bigger cities. Zürich has always felt familiar enough.
BTW, I was on my own until Zurich, but since then I’ve travelled with a companion, making the pace much more relaxed. *18/04/24
From Zurich, the train took me as far as Bern, a place I’d passed through once on a business trip to Pavia in 2016, briefly. Walking the arcades felt just as before; nothing has really changed. Later the line toward Genève took me on, with a change there. I reached Annecy, cool and lively with hints of spring, the air still carrying a trace of winter. I spent a while in the back streets and by the lake. Skipped restaurants and picked up groceries for a hotel dinner.
BTW, oh—I just realized I’m back in France. *19/04/24
Having heard about Megève, we thought we’d go, but the transport was poor for the distance. I couldn’t have worked out my route on my own without a train route planner. We got off at Saint-Gervais-les-Bains-Le Fayet, what a mouthful! A tiny, quaint local station, we hopped on a bus. What a long, slow half-day transfer! We picked up pastries at Patisserie Le Comptoir Du Père Sotieu.
BTW, Nestled among the mountains with crisp, fresh air, and the ski season done, we had the place to ourselves. *20/04/24
Sadly, the train from Le Fayet was on a seasonal suspension, so we continued to Chamonix on a replacement bus. The road climbed toward a town nestled among the mountains. At roughly the same altitude as Megève, it was, in some ways, far more vibrant. How should I put this… The place feels so orderly and neat, considering the rugged nature around it. I even found a quite nice pastry shop.
BTW, the Tartiflette at Le Monchu was authentic. It went perfectly with the local white wine—must be the cheese! *21/04/24
I can’t see Mont Blanc this morning, either. We’re crossing the border today for a short trip into Italy. The Mont Blanc Tunnel is strikingly long…it’s strange to think they actually dug a tunnel through this mountain. Long ago the border here would have been simply a heavy wall. Aosta has a sense of old layers that makes me want to linger, and the shops even feel more inviting as I take it in.
BTW, the bus I booked online didn’t show up on time in Aosta, the staff couldn’t say—so getting back really felt uncertain. *22/04/24
It finally cleared. I headed straight for the Aiguille du Midi by cable car. Stepping outside, the cold was brutal. I kept trying to capture the feeling in my photos. Wow, my hands were freezing. I couldn’t help smiling, realizing how glad I was to have come to Chamonix. In the afternoon, I walked the Promenade des Encontres and later took the charming red Montenvers train up to the Mer de Glace.
BTW, I could see Mont Blanc as well, but the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant were far more striking. *23/04/24
Bacon, scrambled eggs, cheese, and a croissant. The hotel’s tasty breakfasts were a quiet happiness. I left Les Gourmets and took a bus to Genève for the last day of my trip. Back in 1999, I came here unplanned and the fountain stayed with me. I found myself back, seeing the city this time. The fountain had tied the years together.
BTW, I could move by train, could stay in nature, and could find good local food. The pace was slower than in the first week, yet it unfolded into a singular, irreplaceable time. *24/04/24
